Sofia Dragoumi was born in Ioannina in 1979 and spent every Easter and August in Mikro Papigo at her grandmother's house, a sagging stone arxontiko built in 1864 by her great-great-grandfather, a wool merchant who walked the goods down to Igoumenitsa twice a year. By the time Sofia inherited the house in 2013 the roof had dropped on the western wall, the pebble-paved hayati had been concreted over in the 1970s, and the upper floor had been used to store hay. She had spent the previous decade in Geneva working in private banking. She came home with her husband Andreas Liakos, an engineer from Metsovo who had grown up in a similar house in Anilio, and they decided — between one Easter dinner and the next — to give the building back what had been taken from it. The restoration took four



